(Note this is an excert from a discussion about their suspension kit, which raises the front of the vehicle 2.5")

A: This is a HUGE issue. In my opinion, nobody yet makes the perfect wheel for the Dodge. Backspace is one issue - especially for the 2003 models - it's huge - over 6". Offset is another dimension that's important - the Dodge requires at least a +20 mm offset - and the 2003 requires a +40. Many aftermarket wheels are made to work with cheesy "lift kits" so the dimensions of the wheels are all wrong. The lift kit companies all recommend (as per their installation instructions) making the truck as wide as you make it tall - "if you go up four inches, go wider four inches" - for liability purposes - to supposedly keep the CG similar to stock. That's why the control arms included with "lift kits" enable the use of wide wheels with a small backspace and a 0 or even a negative offset. I could talk about this for hours - and it's a constant problem because when you change wheel dimension, you change about 20 other things that I won't get into right now -suffice to say that one of the main things is your wheel bearing life. We've got some setups that have worked really well for us in the past on the older models that don't require as radical a backspace and offset as the 2003. Generally if you've got a pre '03 Ram, you're looking for an 8 on 6.5 lug pattern, 17" diameter wheel with the following dimensions (roughly) 8 - 8.5" width, 5.5" backspace and positive 20mm offset. APP makes an excellent one piece forged aluminum wheel that many Baja racers use - check the "Thunder II." Also try the American Eagle "Series 175" - a cast aluminum wheel with an 18" diameter - and don't freak out because you hear the word "cast" - this wheel has a 3420 lb load rating! Metallurgy has come a long way, boys... So far Weld Racing has been a great help to us. They've sent us many wheels for testing, but none have worked properly so they're making a wheel around our dimensions. T. Rex doesn't really specialize in wheel/tire combos, but as soon as we find a formula that works, we'll let everyone know. The best thing to do is get your truck's suspension set up the way you want, then go put the tire installation people to work. Get a combo you like at the shop, then have them put it on the front. Turn the wheel to the stops on both sides and check your clearances. Drive into a parking lot with the wheels at full lock. Try the wheel/tire combo in the rear as well. Don't buy the setup if it looks like it will rub anywhere. Would you buy a pair of shoes without trying them on? Any good tire shop will do this for you. If they won't, then don't waste your time with them, just go to a more professional establishment. Also, what may work on one truck may not work on another - even the exact same truck with the exact same suspension. Manufacturers are pretty sloppy when it comes to putting the body on the chassis - some will allow huge body/chassis disparities. Measure the symmetry of your truck - you'll see! The point is, tire/wheel fitting takes some serious time and effort to get right - but, just like everything else, it will pay off if done properly.